A couple years ago we went to Mexico. The highlight was Oaxaca for me. When we returned I wrote this short essay about it.
After a few days in Mexico City the slow pace, clear skies and warm colors of Oaxaca are a welcome change. A midafternoon stroll among the colorful colonial facades near the Alcalá pedestrian mall reveals this. Indigenous people sell their bright handicrafts along the sidewalk and nearby small stands prepare tlalludas – large tortillas topped with Oaxacan cheese and fresh vegetables. But beyond the facades and street life lie a variety of gems waiting to be discovered. Several restaurants, hotels, cafes and museums open up past the public doorway to reveal cozy courtyards rich with fountains, flowers, local artwork and, on most days a crisp, radiant light.
We stumbled on one of these spaces one evening as we searched for something sweet to cap our dinner. Inside the Hosteria de Alcalá restaurant the courtyard was aglow. Candles ringed a stone fountain and on the far side an upright piano lay dimly under the balcony. A man hunched over the keys and lovingly played a traditional serenade in waltz-time (called Zandunga, I later learned). The notes melded with the trickling of the fountain and resonated among the courtyard walls, and the tune took on a dreamlike quality.
The next morning we stopped by the Mercado de Artesanías to check out more handicrafts. A small stall attended by an older woman and stacked high with woven rugs caught our eye. Between our broken Spanish and the use of a map, we learned that many of the rugs came from a nearby weaving village. The geometric designs reminded us of Aztec and Zapotec reliefs and paintings we’d seen in museums earlier that week. We bought a couple rugs and decided to plan a day trip to the weaving village.
The next day we arrived, along with 10 other tourists, at the home of an indigenous weaving family in a village called Teotitlán del Valle. With the help of our guide, a tough little woman explained that all their rugs are completely natural. She effortlessly demonstrated how rough bunches of wool is spun into yarn, and when she gave someone in our group the opportunity to try to spin, the yarn quickly fell to pieces. She said that all their dyes are created naturally and we were given a vivid demonstration of one such method which involved grinding up cactus-borne cochineal insects to create a brilliant crimson dye.
We also stopped by a little village called El Tule which is unremarkable except for the fact that it contains the largest living thing on Earth – a type of cypress tree which is a few thousand years old. As we neared the house-sized trunk the quiet of the small-town gave way to the chirps and calls of thousands of birds who had made the tree their home.
Late in the afternoon we visited the ancient Zapotec capital Monte Albán, which is situated on a flat mountain top above Oaxaca. Three valleys radiate from this site and the views atop one of the ancient city’s pyramids ware stunning. Near the large central plaza there was an ancient ball court complete with stone bleachers built to accommodate hundreds of the city’s estimated 25,000 residents. The long, peaceful shadows made it difficult to imagine that the brutal contests played here almost always ended in a score of 1-0 as each game was, literally, a sudden death match.
Back in central Oaxaca the following morning we reflected on our trip over another splendid breakfast. As the waitress walked over to a nearby yerbasanta tree and picked a savory leaf to use in our egg dish, the gentle tune from a few nights before still cycled in my mind. We discussed staying a few days longer.